Power mac g4 cube hackintosh

The Hardware

Make sure you do not have power applied when making any connections or soldering. That means the W power supply should be sufficient. With the center fins removed, a FLEX power supply almost fits in there perfectly. A FLEX power supply is just a little too long to fit between the locking handle indent and the top grill, so we have to shorten it.

The FLEX is a little too long, so I remove the fan, and relocate the power plug to the cube bottom face-plate next to the video card. The cube is small compared to other form factors, so we can shorten all wires on the power supply.

Most of the cable length should be cut off and re-soldered to the power supply motherboard. Here are the wires cut off, De-soldered, and the empty holes. I removed the switch and connected the jumper directly to the power supply motherboard between AV and BV. There is a little unused space in the power supply for the primary wires to exit the case.

Old Cool Computers - Discuss Scratch

Since I won't be using the original cover, I can reclaim that wasted space. Here is the completed power supply next to the original, and the full length of the wires is inches shorter. Final step is mounting it to the locking mechanism where the heat sink used to be. Note that some wires are actually routed between the gap of the power supply and the former heat sink. Why not? I know they are not in use much anymore, but I still need to burn the occasional media platter. And most drivers for new hardware come on a dvd.

I have a slot load slim drive, which is much thinner than the original optical drive, so I 3D printed white some adapter brackets to mound the drive. A few attempts and several adjustments later, and I had the perfect fit red. My SSD is large enough for my primary OS and applications, but user data and media storage needs a little more space. So I mounted my SSD outside the optical drive with a piece of the original drive cage that I cut off.

G4 Cube Mod part 2

I also mounted a Gb spinner to the opposite side of the power supply on the locking mechanism heat sink. The full-length card is 2 inches itself plus the socket on the motherboard which means it would hit the locking mechanism. Not wanting to notch the locking mech again, I opted for the half-height Since the Apple card needs 3.

I ordered a few L78L00 3.

Antenna placement could be an issue being that the entire cube case is metal making it a Faraday cage. There are minor exceptions: a plastic plug on both sides of the external case are for the original Wi-Fi antennas. Since the wifi card will have an external facing antenna port off the motherboard, I need to put the BT antenna near one of these plastic plugs. I 3D printed a replacement plug to fit on the bracket and insert my BT antenna.

A MacBook internal IR sensor runs on 5v, so directly connecting it to an internal USB port will power it fine as well as provide IR data to the computer from the remote control. The sensor should face the front, but the cube case design does not allow for such things unless you drill a hole in the front of the case. Instead, I opted to mount the sensor downward facing, near the front of the cube, and put a little piece of reflective material at a 45 degree angle to allow front IR signals to bounce up into it.

The 3. Yes, the original case design is cool.

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I like a little more flair to let guests know it has been modified. For this build, I had a case I had already painted flat black. I wanted more flair, so I decided on a Rubik style imitation. Vinyl purchased at Michael's craft store as well as a corner rounder doing the corners by hand was ugly. To make it more visually pleasing, I added fake highlights and shadows with silver couldn't find gray , brown and beige darker than white.

I also had to spend some time cutting each ventilation hole out of the rear grid. Not perfect, but looks good at a quick glance.

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I needed the LOW to sink the open circuit on the motherboard power switch. Speakers: Of the six cube cases I have, I have not a single set of Apple speakers. For this reason, I will forgoe any attempt to include an internal power speaker system. Here are a couple of camera shots of the screen forgive the moire. Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4. We want to help maximize the life of your Apple gear. The first Mac with memory expansion and a hard drive bus was the Mac Plus , introduced way back in January The SCSI port on the back let you add up to 7 devices, including hard drives.

The Plus was far more expandable in memory and number of drives than any PC of the era. Prior to the Mac Plus, Macs had no expansion bus and were not designed for memory upgrades. What you bought was all Apple intended for you to have. Except for the Mac Ke, no Mac introduced after the Plus was not designed for memory and hard drive expansion until the first MacBook Air arrived in January The MacBook Air marked the beginning of the end for built-in optical drives, memory upgrades, and, to a great extent, installing a faster or higher capacity hard drive or SSD.

We sold a lot of Microtech hard drives, which had a five year warranty, while Apple was still selling computers with a 90 day warranty! Over time the option of buying a Mac with no hard drive disappeared, but we could still get a faster, higher capacity, better value hard drive to swap in for customers who demanded more than Apple offered. And every Mac offered lots of memory expansion options. It was Steve Jobs who insisted that the original Macintosh have no internal expansion.

No way to upgrade RAM. No room for an internal hard drive or a second built-in floppy. Jobs returned to Apple at the end of , immediately killed any project that took attention away from the Macintosh, and began moving toward the original Mac model of no internal expandability. The iMac was a consumer computer with limited memory expansion, no floppy drive — which most of the tech press saw as its Achilles heel — and no expansion slots. Just one. The Power Mac G4 Cube , introduced in mid, was a first step in that direction with just one card slot and one hard drive bay, but you could boost memory from 64 MB a very useful amount with the Classic Mac OS all the way to 1.

Memory was expensive, so you only bought what you needed. You could always upgrade later. Floppy drives were expensive, so you only added another one if you had to. Its video cards and floppy controller were options. Even the operating system was sold separately.

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For the rest of its days, the PC world had expansion options — usually lots of them with several expansion slots and several drive bays. The iMac gave us the first Mac with no floppy drive. But we had to wait until for the first Mac without memory expansion. System memory was soldered to the system board in the MacBook Air, and your only choice was whether you wanted a horribly pokey iPod-style 1. Kudos to Other World Computing and other vendors who came out with replacement drives for the MacBook Air, giving users a lot more capacity and speed than Apple included in those early Airs.

I hate to say this, but a lot of us consider upgradability a standard feature of computing, and it irks us when Apple solders RAM in place. In the olden days we would buy a Mac with the memory we needed at the time and upgrade when and if there was a need to do so. Default filter applied. Canada Only. North America.

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Step 2: Heatsink Modification

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